Gruyère Cheese Soufflé

Anyone with the American imprint of Larousse Gastronomique will certainly have been tempted by the delectable soufflé on the front cover. The power of suggestion was too strong to resist as one of our French sauces (Béchamel) formed one of the basic ingredients in a savoury soufflé. Larousse, while still a treasure trove of culinary information, is often vague on details as it assumes a good bit of background knowledge about food preparation. To fill in some of the details, we kept open a copy of The Professional Chef on the counter. (And as a target, we kept in mind an exquisite soufflé from La Chaumière in Washington DC.)

Ingredients

40g butter
40g all-purpose flour
200 mL milk
80g Gruyère, finely grated
4–5 egg yolks
4–5 egg whites
salt
pepper
nutmeg

Procedure

1. Combine the butter, flour, milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to make a Béchamel. (See previous post.)
2. Preheat the oven to 220ºC. d
   
3. Mix the eggs yolks in a bowl and temper them with a few spoonfuls of the sauce one at a time. Then, over medium-low heat combine the tempered yolks with the base mixture. Stir constantly for 3–4 minutes. Do NOT allow this to boil.
4. Add the grated Gruyère to the mixture while stirring. (We added these about the same time that we were combining the egg yolks to keep the mixture just a touch cooler.)
5. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks.
   
6. Fold the egg whites into the mixture by thirds.
   
7. Spoon the soufflé batter into ramekins that have been buttered and dusted with flour. Leave about 1cm of space between the level of the batter and the rim.
   
8. Turn the oven down to 200ºC (425ºF). Place the soufflés on a baking pan and into the warm oven. Bake without opening the door or moving until the top is a dark, golden brown. Baking time depends on the size of the ramekins. (Small individual servings: 10–12 minutes; larger soufflés may take 16–24 minutes.)
9. Serve immediately.

After spooning out our mixture into our four small ramekins, we still had plenty of batter leftover, so we put the extra into a small Pyrex bowl; in most respects it was even better. The slightly larger diameter allows the soufflé to remain fluffier. This being our first attempt at a soufflé, it was also easier to judge how well cooked it was because we could see through the glass to the base.

Summer of Sauces - Béchamel

More than halfway through the summer, we're finally tackling the first on our list of the canonical French Sauces, and one of the most straightforward ones, too. Named after the Marquis de Béchameil (1630-1703), the chief steward of Louis XIV, it was originally a velouté with heavy cream, and, in addition to nutmeg, also included bay leaf and onion as flavoring. Now, however, it commonly refers to a white sauce with simple seasoning. We were looking for a challenge, though, and our bechamel became the base of a Gruyere cheese soufflé...

Ingredients
40g (6T) butter
40g (3T) flour
200 mL (2/3 cu) milk
salt
pepper
nutmeg


Procedure
1. Melt the butter in the pan on medium heat.
2. Add flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir frequently on low to medium heat to create a blond roux.
3. Add the milk, and heat to a simmer but not to a boil while stirring constantly. The sauce should thicken in 6-8 minutes.

Asparagus and Avocado Salad

Ham Hock and Lima Beans

This dish has no pretensions to beauty. It doesn't go out to parties. It won't be seen in restaurants. It wouldn't even invite friends over. But what it lacks in appearance and social skills it makes up for in warmth and down-home goodness. For me, fewer sensations epitomize the feeling of home like the smell of a slowly cooking pot of ham hock and lima beans. If one did have to dress this up for presentation, I'd like to think of it as the poor Southerner's cassoulet:

Ingredients:

1 smoked ham hock (smoked gammon knuckle if you are in the UK)
1 lb of butter beans*
1 small onion, diced and lightly sautéed
2 bay leaves

1. Soak the dried lima beans overnight.
2. Simmer the gammon knuckle on low heat for about 2 hours.
3. Remove the ham bone from the broth and separate the meat from the fat and bone. Discard the latter.
4. Add the limas, onions and bay leave to the pot and cook gently for 30-45 minutes.
5. Return the meat to the pot and cook with the beans for an additional 15 minutes--this allows the flavours 'to marry.'
6. Pepper to taste and serve hot. Reheats well.

*A note on butter beans versus lima beans: 'In the Southern United States the Sieva type are traditionally called butter beans, also otherwise known as the Dixie or Henderson type. In that area, lima beans and butter beans are seen as two distinct types of beans.' [Wiki]

The Rustic Table proudly presents...

Join us this summer as we entrust ourselves to the guidance of Larousse Gastronomique and the French Masters and embark upon our journey to master the canonical French sauces.

... to be continued.

Lavender-Lemon Fairy Cakes

After watching about ten episodes of Masterchef in the last week, I got the urge to be"Experimental Chef Macaroni", the contestant/cook who never quite appeals to the pub-hungry judges but manages to make it to the quarterfinal anyway. While narrating my trip to the grocery store in a deep and serious British accent, I decided to make these:

Ingredients for the Cakes:
3/4 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
1 T lemon zest
juice of 1/4 of a lemon
1/2 cup butter, softened
7 T sugar
2 eggs
2 T pine nuts, crushed
2 T lavender milk (see below)
2 t vanilla

Ingredients for the Frosting:

8 oz cream cheese (softened)
3 1/2 cu powdered sugar
1-2 T lavender milk
2 t vanilla
36 raspberries

Ingredients for the Lavender Milk:
1/2 cup whole milk
1 T lavender


Making the Cakes
First, you need to make the lavender milk, which you should do about half an hour before you start baking:

1. Put the milk and lavender in a small saucepan, and bring just to a boil, remove from heat, and cover with tin foil. Let sit for another ten minutes, then strain the milk to remove the lavender, and put aside.

The rest is quite easy once you've gotten everything prepared.
Preheat the oven to 400˚ and place cupcake linings inside 12 cupcake tins.

2. Put all of the ingredients except the milk in a bowl or food-processor and pulse until mixed.
3. Add the milk while stirring, bit by bit, until incorporated.
4. Divide the dough evenly between the cupcakes. There will not be much dough in each, but these are not American MonsterCakes!!! They are dainty. :)

While the cupcakes are baking (which should take between 15 and 20 minutes), make the frosting:

5. Soften the cream cheese in the microwave, and mix with the confectioner's sugar.
6. Add the vanilla and the milk, and incorporate.

When you take the cupcakes out of the oven, let them cool and remove the paper lining.

7. Cut the tops off of the cakes to make them flat.
8. Glaze them with the cream cheese frosting.
9. Top with raspberries, and if you'd like, dust lightly with confectioner's sugar to finish.

Tart and sweet and herb-y, these are delicious and taste like the beginning of Spring, and, in that spirit, I've left my bedroom window open...

Gambas al Ajillo

An excursion to Di Bruno Bros. awakened a latent passion for this Spanish classic. For many years gambas al ajillo had been a personal favourite of mine at Dali Restaurant and Tapas Bar in Somerville, Massachusetts. The dish was such a delight that I never forwent ordering it--despite the effects of consuming large quantities of garlic--simply for social niceties. But now, left to our own devices many miles from Boston, we were guided in our 'at-home' version by the fine folks at Cooks Illustrated. Here's how we did it:

Ingredients:
14 cloves of garlic (2 minced, 4 sliced, and 8 sliced)
1 lb large shrimp, peeled and vein removed
6 Tbsp and 2 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp kosher salt
1 bay leaf
3-5 crushed red chillies (and 1-3 whole for garnish)
1 tsp sherry vinegar or 2 tsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp fresh parsley

1. Place the 1 lb of shrimp, kosher salt, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, and 2 cloves of minced garlic in a bowl. Toss and let marinate for at least 30 minutes.
   
   
2. Gently cook 4 cloves of sliced garlic in 6 Tbsp of olive oil in a 12" skillet on medium low. When the slices are a light golden colour, remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon. This will infuse the oil with a sweet garlic flavour. Place the pan aside until the shrimp have finished marinating.
   
   
3. Slice the remaining 8 cloves of garlic and put them into the skillet on low heat with a bay leaf and the red chillies until the slices are tender, not brown. Increase the heat to medium low and add the shrimp. Cook until the oil bubbles gently (about 2 minutes) and then flip the shrimp over and cook for another 2 minutes. Then turn the heat up to high. Add the vinegar or lemon juice and the fresh parsley. Cook until boiling vigorously (15–20 seconds). Serve immediately.

*Do note that long after the shrimp are gone, the remaining oil and golden pieces of garlic are simply divine on a fresh piece of bread--have some on hand.