Grandmother's Oatmeal Cookies

I have few memories of my great-grandmother.  But among them, I can most vividly recall the smell of her kitchen and the taste of these oatmeal cookies. They're chewy and slightly cake-y. It's a texture that-- from familiarity, association or aesthetic-- I think is perfect.

Ingredients

• 2 c. uncooked oats
• 2 eggs
• 3/4 c. cooking oil
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 c. chopped nuts (optional)
• 1 c. raisins
• 1/4 c. brown sugar
• 1 1/3 c. plain flour
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 2 Tbsp butter, cold and cut into pieces
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp ground clove
• 1/4 tsp allspice
• 1 tsp vanilla extract

Preparation

1. Combine dry ingredients except for the raisins--making sure that the butter has been broken up and spread evenly throughout. 
2. Mix in wet ingredients with a spoon and fold in the raisins.
3. Drop from a tablespoon onto an ungreased cookie sheet and bake at 350ºF/180ºC for 12 minutes. Makes about 20 cookies.

If you want the quick way out, simply combine the first seven ingredients (oats, eggs, oil, milk, nuts, raisins and brown sugar) with a package of spice cake mix.

Jalapeño Cheddar Biscuits

To complement the shrimp and grits, I whipped up a quick batch of biscuits with cheddar and jalapeño. A cheesy, spicy take on White Lily cream biscuits, fast and simple. This recipe made 5 biscuits.

Ingredients:

• 1 c. all purpose flour (White Lily isn't sold in the UK.)
• 1 1/3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 2/3 c. heavy cream
• 1/4 mature cheddar cheese, grated
• a few pickled jalapeño peppers, diced
• butter

Preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 220ºC. Whisk together dry ingredients in a bowl. Pour in the heavy cream, grated cheese and chopped jalapeños, and combine with a wooden spoon. The dough will be sticky and wet. (If you have a feel for biscuit dough, this will be a little more sticky than usual. Add some flour if you think it needs it.)
2. Put the dough onto a floured work surface. Tear off balls about 2 inches in diameter and space them on a baking tray.
3. Bake about 12 minutes until the tops are golden brown. When they come out of the oven, put a small pat of butter onto the top of each one. Cool slightly and serve warm.

Beef Empanadas

Cookbooks are a weakness. It's something about their utility that allows me to loosen my resolve and buy them even though there are millions of recipes and instructions available online. My latest purchase had already been vetted by some friends with great results: it's Michel Roux's Pastry: Savoury and Sweet. Unlike his cookbook on sauces, this volume tells you how to make the dishes to accompany his various kinds of pastry. The first attempt was beef empanadas (or empanadillas, as they are known in Spain). Definitely worth the effort...

Ben's Birthday Brownies

[I did not take this photo... ours is below. But, like stew, all brownies look the same.]

Ingredients
200 g dark chocolate
100 g butter
200 g cream cheese
360 g sugar
4 large eggs
60 g self-rising flour
Mixed spices (cinnamon and nutmeg in particular), about 1 t

Method
Preheat oven to 350˚
1. Melt chocolate, butter, and cream cheese in a bain marie.
2. Beat eggs with sugar.
3. When chocolate mixture is melted, incorporate by spoonful into the eggs. Whisk.
4. Add flour and spices, and mix just to incorporate.
5. Pour into a 10x12 baking pan, and bake for 20-25 minutes. (I made a half recipe, used a pan about half the size of this, and cooked them for 15 minutes. I am guessing at the cooking time here. The final texture should be like that of a fondant.)
6. While still warm, dust with confectioners' sugar.

Sauce Espagnole and Beef Stew

Sauce Espagnole. Also known as "brown sauce," it is a strong-flavored, rich, dark sauce that serves as the basis for a true demi-glace, as well as often being used in classic French recipes like Beef Bourguignon. It can be made vegetarian through the simple removal of the lardons or bacon and substituting the beef stock with vegetable.
As always, La Rousse:

Espagnole Sauce: A brown sauce, which is used as a basis for a large number of derivative brown sauces, such as Robert, genevoise, bordelaise, Bercy, Madeira, and Périgueux. It is made with a brown stock to which a brown roux and a mirepoix are added, followed by a tomato purée. Cooking takes several hours and the sauce needs to be skimmed, stirred, and strained.

So, first things first, the Mirepoix:


Mirepoix Ingredients:
1 part celery, diced
2 parts onion, diced
1 part carrot, diced
1/2 part (by volume) streaky bacon or lardons

Method
1. Melt just enough butter in the pan to thinly coat the bottom.
2. Let the onion and carrots sweat briefly, then add celery and lardons.
3. Cover and cook on medium for about 20 minutes.

You will not use much of this mixture for the Espagnole, so set all but about half a cup aside to store in the freezer. Mirepoix, once made, comes in handy in all sorts of stocks and soups!
The next step is to make a brown roux:



Like a blonde roux, the recipe includes using equal parts butter and flour (by weight), melting, and letting the flour toast. However, unlike the blonde, you allow the process to carry on until the mixture has formed a deep, chestnut color. For our Espagnole, we used 25 grams of both butter and flour, which works out to 2 tablespoons butter and 1/4 cup flour.

Mix the roux with 1/2 a cup mirepoix, and then combine with 1 cup chopped mushrooms and a can of chopped tomatoes. Add 1 liter of beef stock, along with thyme, chervil, and parsley, and simmer uncovered for 4 hours.


After cooking, skim the sauce and strain through a cheesecloth to get all the veggies out. Even though they'd had--as my high school bio teacher would say--"the snot and vitamins cooked out of them", I was sad throwing all those good vegetables away. Of course, the sauce was flavorful and completely saturated with the taste of carrots, celery, onion, tomatoes, mushrooms, and bacon (!), we decided to make a stew that could reincorporate them in some way.

First, we browned a pound of cheap beef with simple herbs:

And then stewed it with the sauce, in the oven, covered, for about 4 hours at 250˚ F. Three or so hours in, we added some diced butternut squash and reincorporated the veggies from before, along with about 1/2 a cup of reduced red wine and the juice of half a lemon. This made for the most hearty, deepest-flavored stew I'd ever had, and it tasted delicious on couscous (though I couldn't fault anyone who wanted to cook up some simple dumplings or egg pasta to accompany it instead). I don't have any photos of the stew, though, because all stew is incredibly unphotogenic.

It was wonderful.

Summer of Sauces - Béchamel

More than halfway through the summer, we're finally tackling the first on our list of the canonical French Sauces, and one of the most straightforward ones, too. Named after the Marquis de Béchameil (1630-1703), the chief steward of Louis XIV, it was originally a velouté with heavy cream, and, in addition to nutmeg, also included bay leaf and onion as flavoring. Now, however, it commonly refers to a white sauce with simple seasoning. We were looking for a challenge, though, and our bechamel became the base of a Gruyere cheese soufflé...

Ingredients
40g (6T) butter
40g (3T) flour
200 mL (2/3 cu) milk
salt
pepper
nutmeg


Procedure
1. Melt the butter in the pan on medium heat.
2. Add flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir frequently on low to medium heat to create a blond roux.
3. Add the milk, and heat to a simmer but not to a boil while stirring constantly. The sauce should thicken in 6-8 minutes.